pembroke

(Penfro in welsh)

Climbing in Pembroke

Pembroke, located in South West Wales, is one of the premier climbing destinations in the UK, famed for its dramatic limestone sea cliffs, wild scenery, and adventurous routes. The area offers a vast selection of traditional (trad) climbing, with some of the best coastal crags in Europe. Pembroke’s combination of stunning cliffs, abundant wildlife, and a wide variety of climbing routes makes it a must-visit for any serious climber.

Range East: Range East is one of the most popular and extensive areas for climbing in Pembroke, located on the eastern side of the Castlemartin MoD firing range. The cliffs here are some of the most picturesque and offer a wide selection of high-quality trad routes. The crags are divided into smaller sectors, each with its own character and range of routes.

Saddle Head:  A more beginner-friendly crag within Range East, offering good protection and a variety of entry-level grades. It’s ideal for those new to Pembroke climbing, with easier access and shorter routes such as Sea Mist (HS 4a).

Madman’s Point: Also within range east, Madman’s Point offers a bold and adventurous climbing experience with its stunning coastal views, technical limestone climbs, and wild atmosphere, it’s one of Pembrokeshire’s more secluded yet rewarding spots. A standout feature of this crag is Mad Hatter’s Tea Party (E1 5c) described as the steepest E1 in Pembroke if not all of the UK.

Stennis Head: Like Saddle Head, Stennis Head is one of the most popular and accessible sea cliffs for climbing in Pembroke. Stennis Head stands out for its mix of classic routes, a good range of grades, and its ease of access compared to more remote areas of the coast. Some notable climbs include Manzoku (E1 5b), Hercules (HVS 5a), Rider On The Storm (HVS 5a) and Pleasure Dome (E3 5c).

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